PET CARE TIPS
Wild birds
- Dependence on humans
- Feeding areas
- Monthly feeding guide
- Peanuts and Aflatoxin
- Bird tables
- Hanging bird feeders
- Hygiene
- Nest boxes
Dogs
- Training
- Dental disease
Cats
- Food for different lifestages
- Wet or Dry Food
- Weight management
- Hairball formation
Aquatic
- Aquarium set up
- Choosing an aquarium
- Filters
- Heaters
- Siting an aquarium
- Aquatic fish food
- How much to feed and when
Wild Birds
Dependence on humans
Feeding wild birds has become an all year round activity, due to the fact that many species of birds have become dependent on human interaction. They not only require food and water in the cold winter months but also rely on our help for breeding and feeding throughout the year as their natural resources disappear. this means that there are real variations in the type of food required by birds based on weather, breeding, age, migration, size and breed and specific habitats.
Feeding areas
Garden birds all have their preferred feeding areas and fall into three main catagories these are: ground feeding, table feeding and hanging, bare this in mind when feeding birds in your garden and you will be able to attract a wider range of species.
Monthly feeding guide -November
Water is extremely important at this time of year when natural sources may be frozen making yor supply invaluable for the wild birds in your garden. As the cold weather gets worse it is important to maintain constant supplies of food, as birds become dependent on the food people put out. Also birds that do not use feeding stations during the summer months may now come into the garden hunting for food.
Fats and oils are an extremely valuable food souce, Sunflower Hearts can contain up to 60% oil and Peanuts up to 50% The difference in food quality is therefore significant when comparing these highly palatable premium raw materials with cheap cereal based ingedients like wheat, which has a maximum oil content of around 5%
View our range of wild bird feeds and treats in the online shop.
Peanuts and Aflatoxin
Aflatoxin is a poisonproduced by the soil fungus, which can occur on peanuts in their country of origin. It is a very powrful toxin, which is harnful to many living organisms, including people and birds, Unfortunately aflatoxin can only be detected by chemical analysis. Tests for aflatoxin are carried out in both the country of origin and by port health authorities and importers themselves in the UK, and there are strict legal maximum limits in nuts for human and animal consumption. Certain hot and humid conditions are needed for the fungus to grow and produce the toxin, these conditions do not exist in Europe. So once nuts have reached th UK, and have been certified free of aflatoxin, it is extremely unlikely that they would develop the toxin later.
It is advisable to only buy peanuts from reputable dealers, do not buy very cheap peanuts if the seller cannot guarentee their quality, as there is a greater risk that they are harmful. nuts fed to wild birds should be human quality.
If the peanuts look mouldy or smell musty don't buy them. Nuts rejected from processing plants (broken nuts, those with wrinkled skins looking cosmetically unattractive, and sweepings) are perfectly acceptable and are often sold as bird food
Bird Tables
No garden is complete with out a bird table, they provide the most efficient feeder for the greatest number of species, food is kept off the ground and a safe feeding place for birds is provided, they also make an attractive feature for your garden. A bird table will attract lots of small birds but big species like rooks, wood pigeons, even pheasants may visit, bird tables provide people with a convienient 'stage' to watch bird and bird behaviour, aggregations of birds that do not normally feed together may result in behaviour called 'dominance' where some birds may drive others off, Blackcaps visiting bird tables in the winter for instance are well known for driving off other species from the feeding site!'
Birds that you are most likely to have visiting a bird-table include:
- Blue Tit
- Great Tit
- Coal Tit
- Blackbird
- Starling
- House Sparrow
- Greenfinch
- Goldfinch
- Nuthatch
- Robin
- Chaffinch
- Song Thrush
- Mistle Thrush
- Collared Dove
- Woodpidgeon
- Jackdaw
- Wren
Hanging bird feeders
Birds you may see on a hanging bird feeder
- Blue Tit
- Great tit
- Coal Tit
- Lon-tailed Tit
- Starling
- House Sparrow
- Great Spotted Woodpecker
- Greenfinch
- Siskin
Birds like Tits and finches are most likely to visit hanging feeders, some of these birds are adapted to living high in trees and shrubs they naturally cling from twigs etc. and hang upside down to reach for food under leaves. other less agile birds such as the Chaffinch and Goldfinch can be helped by having perches on your hanging feeder. House Sparrows and Starlings which don't normally feed in this manner soon learn to exploit this free source of food-if rather clumsily, Robins may hover at the feeder and peck at the hanging food.
Care must be taken where you site your hanging feeder as the flurry of small birds can attract unwelcome visitors such as hunting Sparrowhawks, Jackdaws, Rooks and crows may also raid feeders.
View our range of feeders, bird tables etc. in our online shop
Hygiene is very important and a few precautions will help ensure that diseases are not transmitted between birds or to humans.
It is essential that tables and any feeding areas are checked and brushed or swept clean reguarly to ensure there is no build up of food particles or droppings, it also helps to move the feeding sites several times during a year.
Bird baths, tables and any solid feeding area should be reguarly scrubbed clean using hot saopy water, rinsed several times to remove all soap residue. Water containers should be rinsed reguarly, preferably daily during the warmer months and fresh water added.
Personal hygiene: do not bring feeders into the house to clean them do it outside with seperate utensils, wear gloves for cleaning feeders bird tables etc. always wash hands when finished.
As older feeding equipment becomes damaged or affected by time and weather you need to reguarly replace them to reduce the risk of disease.
Nest Boxes Nest Boxes shold be put up from early January to the end of February, when pairs of birds will be already exploring for potential nest sites. Nest boxes not only encourage garden birds to stay and breed near our homes, they also help species that are in decline in their natural habitats. Putting up several boxes increases the chance of at least one being used, and by using several styles there is a good chance than unusual species will arrive and nest. Don't give up if your box is not used in the first year, chances are that it will be used in future years!
If you have nest boxes up in your garden they need cleaning out after use, they should ideally be done in late autumn and filled with a handful of clean hay or wood shavings so increasing the chance of it being used by birds or small mammals as a winter roost. The old nest material should be removed and the box disinfected with boiling water to prevent the build up of parasites(don't use insecticides or flea powders)
Even if your garden is well stocked with food, birds will leave in the breeding season if they cannot find a suitable nest site, Keep birds in your garden all year round by putting up some nest boxes. More than 60 species are known to use nest boxes, obviously different species have different needs and preferences and much depends on where the box is situated and its suroundings.
A typical nest box is rectangular in shape upright with a small hole at the frount, its size depends on the nesting species. Small boxes attract Tits while the largest may be used by birds up to the size of Jackdaws. Open frounted boxes are used by species that nest on ledges and partly enclosed spaces, such as Robins, Spotted Flycatchers, Pied Wagtails and occasionally Blackbirds and Wrens.
Social species like House sparrows which are now in decline may use a collection of several adjacent boxes this could boost the numbers of these once common birds, House sparrows use Blue Tit sized boxes with entrance holes of 32mm (1 1/4") Most birds defend larger territories and prefer boxes spaced out around the garden.
Choosing a Nest Box
Nest boxes are designed with various hole sizes suited to particular species, below is a list of birds that prefer open or enclosed boxes and the preferred hole size:
Enclosed Nest Boxes:
Species Hole diameter
- Blue Tit 25mm (1")
- Great Tit 28mm (1")
- Tree Sparrow 28mm (1")
- Nuthatch 32mm (1 1/4")
- House sparrow 32mm (1 1/4")
- Starling 45mm (1 3/4")
- Great spotted woodpecker 50mm (2")
- Little Owl 70mm (2 3/4")
- Mallard 150mm (6")
- Stock Dove 150mm (6")
- Tawny Owl 150mm (6")
- Jackdaw 150mm (6")
Half Open / Open Nest Boxes
Bird species
- Wren
- Pied wagtail
- Robin
- Blackbird
- Spotted Flycatcher
- Feral pigeon
- Kestrel
A half open box is simple in design and easy to clean, they are particularly attractive to Robins, Spotted Flycatchers and Wrens if positioned low within dense cover.
An open nest box gives species such as Blackbirds a platform on which they can build their nest, it is easy to maintain and offers excellent viewing opportunities.
Dogs
Training
To train your dog successfully you need to understand that dogs 'obey' certain natural laws of behaviour, it follows its natural instincts, our human rules cannot be applied to their behaviour.
Dog training is based on the right kind of communication between you and your dog you must learn to 'Think' like your dog and to understand its natural instincts.
Learning and behaviour require motivation, you need to understand about dogs learning behaviour, this is crucial the secret is to get your dog to do 'what it wants to do' If we expect our dog to obey commands we have to give those commands in a way that is appropriate for dogs
- Don't use long sentences
- Single words are best
- Don't shout loudly
- Use a quiet, friendly but firm tone
- First get your dog to understand the connection between hand movement, its behaviour and the reward, once understood move onto spoken commands
- Couple spoken commands to hand movements e.g. raised index finger for the command 'Sit'
- Be consistent with your commands.
- Only use spoken signals once (don't let your dog get used to ignoring commands)
- Praise (treat) your dog when it does something correctly.
- Rebuke undesired behaviour, a rebuke should always be an unpleasant surprise and carried out immediately your dog displays bad behaviour.
- A verbal rebuke should almost always be sufficient e.g. 'NO!' in a deep firm tone' before it does something it shouldn't, 'Bad dog' if you catch it doing something it shouldn't!
- Praise and rebukes should be carefully timed so the dog clearly understands the connection between its behaviour and your response. Dogs live for the moment and do not remember what they did a short while ago, so telling your dog off/or praising him for past actions actions, will just leave him confused, you need to catch him in the act.
- Your dog needs to see you as the Leader of the pack whom he willingly and happily Obeys.
You can begin to train your dog as early as three weeks old, incorporate training into your play sessions training must be fun for your dog not a chore! he needs to want to please you. During the first 8-24 weeks of life The Conditioning phase is the time your puppy will learn easily and for the long term/ this is a good time to take your puppy to a mixed puppy play group giving it chance to socialize with it's peers and discover it's boundaries in a playful atmosphere.
The most important commands are Sit! Down! stay! Go! Come!(or Here!) Heel! Give!
The main thing you will need lots of when training your puppy or older dog is lots and lots of patience, this combined with time and kindness give a winning combination! But to help you on your way we have a selection of Training Aids available for you in our online shop.
Things you may need to housetrain your puppy are a properly fitted crate, a collar and leash, some treats, and you may want to try Puppy training pads these are aimed to take the work out of house training puppies. The hygienic pads are scientifically treated to attract your dog, which encourages them to use the pad as a toilet, these are also good for indoor adult dogs. Reward your dog's good behaviour with plenty of praise and occasionally with a tasty treat lots available in our online shop.
Dental disease is a painful and possibly serious problem that requires a vets attention, The original cause of most dental problems is plaque, a colourless film that contains a large number of harmful bacteria.
Though dental disease is a preventable and treatable problem with most pets, there are significant risks associated with poor oral health.
By the age of three most pets show some signs of dental disease.
Periodental disease in pets has been associated with liver, kidney and heart disease.
Periodental disease in pets can lead to poor general heath.
Feeding a veterinarian recommended food that doesn't shatter upon contact with the tooth will help scrape away plaque and provide numerous dental benifits such as fresh breath and healthy gums.
Cats
Choosing the right food for your cat or kitten
A lot of pet foods are aimed at different age groups, containing nutrition for a specific stage in your cats life you need to ensure the choosen product is appropriate for your cats age and lifestyle, and remember feeding guides are only a starting point, and food amounts must be adjusted to meet the changing needs of your pet.
Start with a product designed for the cats age:
- Kitten--up to 1year
- Adult cat--1-6 years
- Mature Adult Senior--7 years and over
It is important to feed a cat according to its age because of the biological changes the cat will go through.
There are also Lifestyle choices within the adult age groups such as 'light' for cats that tend to gain weight easily.
Wet or Dry Food
After you have determined your cats lifestage and lifestyle needs, you need to decide whether to feed dry or wet food. Most cats thrive on eating only dry food. Dry foods help promote healthy teeth and gums through abrasive action.
It is important to remember that while dry food be left in a bowl all day, canned food should be thrown away after 30 minutes if not consumed. Therefore dry food maybe the the most convenient choice if you have a busy lifestyle and are not normally home during the day.
Weight management
'According to PDSA nearly 50% of dogs and 20% of cats in the UK are overweight'
Vets recognise that food plays an important role in treating a cat who is overweight. Along with exercise, a food with reduced fat and calories is essential in helping a cat lose weight and stay fit. Fibre is also a key ingredient in food used for weight loss since it reduces the caloric density of the food while providing the bulk necessary to satisfy a pets hunger.
Once a cat has been overweight, it may be prone to weight gain and should have an ongoing plan based on good diet, exercise and regular check-ups that include regular weight checks.
- Overfeeding: Cats with unlinited acess to food often become overweight. Feeding kittens too much can create extra fat cells that stay with the pet for life.
- Overeating: Many commercial foods are loaded with salt and fat. This improves taste but can result in over-consumption
- Feeding habits: Feeding table scraps and home cooked meals can lead to obesity.
- Lack of exercise: Too much food and too little exercise can cause weight gain
- Age: Older, less active pets are prone to weight gain
- Gender: Female cats are more likely to experience weight gain
- Neutering: Spayed or neutered cats are twice as likely to become obese.
Source: Hill's pet nutrition.
Hairball Formation- All cats spend a considerable amount of time grooming their coats, in the process hair can be swallowed and may build up in the stomach. If the hair ball doesn't pass into the intestines, a cat may attempt to eliminate it with coughing or gagging. Feeding a special diet with powdered cellulose and beet pulp can decrease the likelihood of hairball formation. When you feed your cat a hairball management formula you may decrease its effectiveness if you combine it with other foods.
AQUATIC
Aquarium set up- how to get started
When planning to set up a tank the most important question is what type of fish is to be kept.
Goldfish
Gold ish are by far the most popular coldwater fish, kept both beginner and expert alike. They are ideal fish for anyone starting in the hobby of fish keeping being brightly coloured, hardy and easy to care for.
Tropical fish
There are hundreds of species of tropical fish available, many require specialist care and attention. Most people start with 'community' fish, species which geneally get on with each other and do not require any unusual care
Next you need to decide what type of aquarium will be needed.
Choosing an Aquarium
It will be important to know how many fish the aquarium will house. A rough guide is that ther should be 1cm of fish for evry 25cm2(1 in 10in2) of water. It is always best to recommend as big a tank as can be afforded, not only because it is possible to house a better selection of fish but also because it tends to be easier to maintain good water quality in larger tanks. Fish also benifit from a larger tank as they have more opportunity to behave naturally.
Setting ip an basic aquarium is very simple and relatively inexpensive. There are many kits available now, they offer good value and contain all the information needed to set up.
Filters
A filtration system is required to remove toxic ammonia and solid waste from the aquarium creating a healthy environment for the fish.
There are various methods of filtration, the most popular choice with fish keepers now is the internal Filter An internal filter consists of a canister which contains a variety of media used to clean the water as it is pulled through the filter.
Heaters
For Tropical tanks a heater will be vital for the wellbeing of the fish where the temperature in the tank will be generally need to be between 24-27'c
As the tank temperature is crucial in keeping tropical fish the purchase of a thermometer is recomended.
Placing an aquarium
It is important to consider carefully where the aquarium should be sited, once full of water the aquarium will be very heavy and difficult to move, time consuming and stressful to the fish. Try to site in a quiet area away from sources of hot or cold and away fron direct sunlight to help avoid algae problems.
Aqatic fish food
Fish food primarily consists of carbonhydrates, proteins, fats, minerals and vitamins. These components can be included into fish food in various forms, using various techniques. A good quality food, will include these costituents in their correct proportions in a form that wikk allow them to be readily utilised by the fishes.
If a good quality food is not used, then you run the risk of creating excess levels of waste in the tank. Because poor quality foods are not digested as well, more solid waste is produced which ultimately breaks down in the tank, using up oxygen and releasing pollutants.
How much to feed and when
Fish Should ideally be fed in small meals, two or three times a day. These meals should be spaced out, preferably in the morning, at midday, and in the evening. The fish should consume all the food within two to three minutes. Any excess should be removed from the tank so it does not have the chance to rot down. If you have fish that are only fed after dark then you should add a good quality tablet to the tank, after you have turned the lights out.
Everything a fish eats is excreated into the water so the more the fish eat the higher the risk of pollution becomes. A well fed aquarium is more likely to develop poor water quality, sick fish and algae problems. Fish are programmed to gobble up everything they can, far more than they need in fact. As a consequence it is very easy to overfeed fish.